To clean and care for leather shoes, brush off the loose dirt, clean the leather with Angelus Easy Cleaner, and let it air dry. Then condition with Angelus Leather Balm, polish with Angelus Shoe Wax Polish, and buff with a horsehair brush. A few coats of Angelus Water & Stain Repellent and a pair of shoe trees between wears will keep them in good shape for years. Every few weeks of regular wear is a good rhythm.
We still make Leather Balm with the formula our family created in 1907. This is the routine we use on Oxfords, loafers, boots, and any other smooth leather shoe.
Quick answer: the Angelus leather shoe routine
- Brush with a horsehair brush.
- Clean with Easy Cleaner and let them dry.
- Condition with Leather Balm.
- Polish with Shoe Wax and buff with horsehair.
- Spray with Water & Stain Repellent and store on shoe trees.
Shop this guide
Also handy: Shoe Trees, Water & Stain Repellent, Spot Remover, Wool Daubers, and Microfiber Towels.
Real reviews from Angelus customers
4.9 stars from 580+ reviews of Angelus Shoe Trees
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"I had never used brushes for polishing and buffing before and I had no idea what I was missing!! I cant get over the shine I got using these brushes with neutral shoe polish wax."
Kristie S. ยท Verified buyer ยท Horsehair Brush
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"This has to be the best polish anywhere... been using it since age 11. Has served me well in my yrs in the Marine Corps. Great for spit shining."
Verified buyer ยท Black Shoe Wax Polish
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"Very happy with these trees, they are solid, and made it super easy to get some old boots all shined up and looking new. They also stop boots from getting creases while in storage."
Liz E. ยท Verified buyer ยท Shoe Trees
How to clean leather shoes, step by step
Remove the laces, add shoe trees, and brush
Take out the laces and put in a pair of Angelus Shoe Trees so you have a firm surface. Brush off the loose dirt with the horsehair rocker brush, paying attention to the welt and seams. Grit left on the shoe scratches the leather once you start rubbing.
Clean with Easy Cleaner
Put a little Angelus Easy Cleaner on a microfiber towel or soft brush and work it over the leather in small circles, without soaking it. Wipe the dirt away, then do the soles and edges the same way.
Let them dry
Leave them at room temperature with the shoe trees in. Heaters and direct sun dry leather out, and dry leather cracks.
Condition with Leather Balm
Rub a thin layer of Angelus Leather Balm into the leather with a cloth or wool dauber. Spend a little more time on the toe flex and heel, which dry out first. Let it dry and buff it to a soft shine. It puts back the oils that wear and cleaning take out, and it doesn't leave the shoe greasy.
Customer story
"I tried another product, but it was not effective in treating and restoring my western boots. This leather balm from Angelus was just the ticket." (Joseph W., verified buyer, Leather Balm)
Polish with shoe wax
Pick the Angelus Shoe Wax Polish that matches your shoes, or Neutral if you're not sure. Work a small amount in with a cloth in little circles, give it a few minutes to dry, then buff with the horsehair brush in quick side-to-side strokes.
Pro tip: for more shine on the toe and heel, add a second thin layer and buff again.
Protect and store
Spray 2 to 3 light coats of Angelus Water & Stain Repellent about 30 minutes apart and let it dry for 12 hours. Keep the shoes on shoe trees somewhere cool and dry, and switch pairs day to day so each one gets time to dry out.
Short on time?
Angelus Instant Shine gives black dress shoes a quick shine with no buffing. It's handy before work or an event, and it isn't a replacement for the full routine above.
Caring for different kinds of leather shoes
Full-grain and dress shoes
The whole routine: Easy Cleaner, Leather Balm, Shoe Wax, the horsehair brush, and Water & Stain Repellent.
Patent leather
Easy Cleaner and a microfiber towel, then buff it dry. Spot Remover can damage the coating, so leave it out.
Suede and nubuck
These need a dry brush, an eraser, and very little water. The Nubuck & Suede Kit has both, and the suede guide walks through it.
Work boots
Deep clean with Saddle Soap, then condition and waterproof with Mink Oil Paste. More in the boot guide.
Exotic leather
Clean with Reptile & Exotic Cleaner & Conditioner and deep condition with Exotic Conditioner.
How to remove stains from leather shoes
| Stain | What to do |
|---|---|
| Water spots | Dampen the whole panel evenly, let it dry on shoe trees, and condition with Leather Balm. |
| Salt lines | Clean with Easy Cleaner from the outside in, let it dry, and condition right away. |
| Oil & grease | Blot, clean, then Spot Remover after a test. See the oil guide. |
| Ink & marker | Spot Remover on a cotton swab, after a test. See the ink guide. |
| Scuffs | Color-matched Shoe Wax, buffed with horsehair. If the finish is broken, see cracks below. |
How to fix common leather shoe problems
Loose soles
Clean both surfaces with Angelus Leather Preparer & Deglazer, spread a thick layer of Angelus Clear Shoe Cement on both, press them together, and keep them clamped for 24 hours before you wear them.
Customer story
"I had already tried regular contact cement, but it did not hold. The Angelus product is holding up very well. I will use it on my boots next." (Steve B., verified buyer, Clear Shoe Cement)
Cracked or dry leather
Regular Leather Balm keeps cracks from forming. If they already have, fill them with Angelus Paintable Repair Filler, which dries flexible, then color-match with Angelus Leather Paint and seal the paint with Acrylic Finisher. The full process is in how to restore leather shoes.
Odor
Spray Angelus Deodorizer inside the shoes, along the tongue, seams, and toe box. It kills the bacteria that cause the smell. Let them air out for 24 hours and keep shoe trees in between wears.
Mold, squeaks, or bigger damage
We don't make a mold remover. Dry the shoes out completely, look up a method that suits your pair, and condition with Leather Balm afterward (more on mold). A squeaky loose heel or a torn upper is a job for a cobbler.
Mistakes to avoid
- Toothpaste, baking soda, vinegar, and rubbing alcohol dry the leather out, strip the finish, and leave residue behind.
- Soaking leather shoes or putting them in the washing machine damages the leather and the glue.
- Heaters and direct sun crack leather.
- Cleaning without conditioning leaves the leather drier than it started.
- Spot Remover always gets a spot test first, and it never goes on patent.
Leather shoe care FAQ
What is the best way to clean leather shoes?
Brush off the dirt, clean with Angelus Easy Cleaner, let them dry, condition with Leather Balm, and polish with Shoe Wax and a horsehair brush.
How do you condition leather shoes?
Rub in a thin layer of Angelus Leather Balm with a cloth or wool dauber, let it dry, and buff. Do it after every deep clean, or every month or two of regular wear.
How do you polish leather shoes?
On clean, conditioned leather, work in a thin layer of color-matched Angelus Shoe Wax Polish in small circles, let it dry, and buff with a horsehair brush. A second thin layer gives more shine.
How do you get stains out of leather shoes?
Clean with Easy Cleaner first. For ink or oil that's still there, spot test Spot Remover and dab it on with a cotton swab, then condition.
How do you waterproof leather shoes?
Spray 2 to 3 light coats of Water & Stain Repellent. For work boots, use Mink Oil Paste.
How do you fix a loose sole?
Clean both surfaces with Deglazer, spread Angelus Clear Shoe Cement on both, press them together, and clamp for 24 hours.
How do you make leather shoes last longer?
Clean and condition them regularly, protect them with Water & Stain Repellent, store them on shoe trees somewhere cool and dry, and give each pair a day off between wears.
